3/19 - 3/26 Best for last!!

                     (You can/should tap on these pictures to zoom in and get the whole story)
On Thursday 3/19 we were waiting around like a lot of locals for the supply ship to come in. I was planning to leave first thing but didn’t want to go without the backup propane tank filled and it was a good thing cause the morning tide washed in our sailing buddies Marshelle  and Purrfect. Since we had 2 days of experience at Black Point we joined Purrfect to tour the town. Trash goes there, sharks here, bread over there and two convenience store sized grocery stores. It’s a quick tour and on the way back we stopped at the laundry dock to visit with Dave and Shelley.

By the time everyone had gotten bread and groceries the supply ship arrived and there was a flurry of activity. There were as many people hand carrying items away from the town dock as there were trucks and cars moving larger loads. Somewhere in that commotion is my propane but I’m told my tank will not be ready till late afternoon. Since there’s not enough time to leave today we make plans to attend the buffet at Emerald Sunset View.



This proved to be a great choice and it was one of our best meals out for the trip. The food quality, quantity and 2 for 1 drink specials were great as was spending time with Dave and Shelley. There were changes starting from the virus impacts and I knew this might be one of the last meals out for a while. However our plan for us all to end the night at Chris and Allison’s didn’t happen as dinner went long... it was an endless buffet! We missed saying goodbye and thanking them for the great sweatshirts they gave us...they’ll be very handy in Maine.

It was over 90 when we took this pic regardless of how cool we look 

We headed out for Staniel Cay in the morning of 3/20 and after a sporty sail we anchored nearby Thunderbolt Grotto just before noon. We took the diesel containers and headed to  town. Our first stop was a small market on a creek very close to the airport runway. This is a spot that cruisers use to pick up and drop off their guests. We looked around the market, the airport and another small market a half mile away (it usually takes visiting a couple of these small markets to get what you need/want)
then returned to the fuel dock for diesel.

Shot of the fuel dock but more importantly the BTC Wi-Fi tower

Up this creek is the airport and one of the three stores

Here is where we began seeing some virus safeguards. No more sit down meals at the yacht club restaurant and the clerk at the supermarket was using an abundance of sanitizer between customers. After bringing everything to the boat we thought we would give the grotto a try even though the tide wasn’t right. The current was so strong pushing us out that we could not enjoy the visit so we return to the boat put away the diesel and food and plan for  tomorrow.
 March 21 proved to be a very busy day. We started the day on the beach at great majors Island to visit the pigs that swim out to meet you for food.



Having the Bahamas closed down for the virus means the absence of tourists ferried down from the cruise ships in Nassau on high-speed boats. We almost had the pigs to ourselves.

  

We returned to the Yacht Club for dinghy gas and the last bit of diesel to top off. We also left the handheld radio I found in Georgetown for the owner at the office.

I reassured her that lots of people only have seven toes 

At their dock there is a place where you can interact with the nurse sharks. Also before we left we said hello and our final goodbyes to Purrfect and Marshelle as they were in to get supplies. Our last act was to swim inside and walk around outside and atop of the thunderbolt grotto.

Snorkeler heading for the thunderbolt cave opening

Looking in from the top… Zoom in and you can see someone’s fins

Ahhhh

Sheri waiting patiently for me to explore

There was still a little bit of current to overcome to get in but inside we floated around the cave looking at the fish illuminated by streams of light from the openings in the ceiling. It was an enjoyable visit and the view from the top looking around and looking down on the swimmers was great.Since the boat was anchored so close to the grotto in no time we were under way on 6 mile trip to Little Pipe Cay.

Steadfast anchored in front of one of the five homes on Little Pipe Cay

 

There we anchored in front of a monohull from Canada in the narrow passage off the beach at Little Pipe Cay. This island with 5 homes three beaches and multiple amenities could be yours for just 85 million. The big attraction here were the sand flats that get covered with shallow water as the tide rises. First we checked in with our neighbors to make sure our anchor location was acceptable. Sly and Lucy were an engaging couple from Montreal that I hope to meet again when social distancing is repealed.



With chairs and a cold drink we were off to the sand where we walked about appreciating the spectacle of color that was ours to enjoy.We sat in our chairs as the water rose to meet us then we headed back slowly as we looked about and watched the rays swim. While grilling dinner and enjoying our location I knew that this day was ready for bed.
We slip out early with a wave to our neighbors Sunday 3/22 and head to Warderick Wells to claim our reserved mooring in the north field. After our good 5 hour sail ends we are wrestling the boat in the wind and current finally backing it into place at mooring 11.  Anyone can do it forward...
There were two turtles who kept watching us and I’m sure were impressed. Wow..what a location and soon we were off to the shore and the park headquarters.

Though there was still staff on site the Land and Sea Park headquarters was closed for virus protection and the one worker we saw walked quickly past us as she acknowledged our arrival and directed us to pay online. We looked about the outside display boards of seabirds and island information then headed out to climb Booboo Hill. The hill was named after a legend saying if you go to the top on a night with a full moon you could hear the lost souls from a schooner that crashed singing hymns.

Island staff garden tourists

It really is shallow on each side 

Stay on the path?

The trail wound through the rough growth and tidal flats up to the top where you could view this amazing island as well as a pile of ship and passenger names on scrap wood that visitors would leave. Returning in the dinghy we saw a beautiful Eagle Ray that Sheri was able to photograph through our look bucket. Very cool ray and good pic Sheri!
This was a great location to just sit in our chairs on the front deck and watch the landscape, the water, the turtles and people swim past.

After a morning in this restful spot on the 23rd we sailed south to pick up a mooring at O’Briens Cay. Nestled between millionaires islands we watched spiritual head of the Ismaili Muslims Aga Khan IV’s white helicopter land on his controversial Bell Island and later read a sign saying “This is not Disney you are not welcome here”on Johnny Depp’s neighboring Little Halls Pond Cay. These however were thankfully not the highlight. That was reserved for nature when we snorkeled in an area known as the aquarium.

Private harbor with sheds having hurricane proof doors

A great place to hide from a virus

Johnny Depps Island beach with camera upper left...I waved 

Upon entering the water the fish gather around and the vibrant coral completes this perfect setting. Nature wins again...good job God! That night we listened to the Bahamas Prime Minister’s broadcast on the shuttering of the country. Restrictions on island to island movement, tips on what families could do together and encouraging prayer that this storm would pass over their land were highlights. A lot of these islands have little to no medical care so a pass over would be great.

Island bench for love

The morning of the 25th we headed for Norman’s Cay for the last two nights in the Exumas. We settled on the east side just east of the breakwater that leads into a new development. This breakwater and being 200 feet from the leeward shore provided us with a sheltered setting. After dinner we dinghied a quarter mile to One Tree Cay. This Island was perhaps 100 x 50 featuring a well worn bench inscribed to a couple who really loved these islands. As I watched the sun set I knew their affections were not misplaced.

If you look close you can see the small boat to the left and the supply dock behind 

While returning to the boat we spoke with our neighbor who has been traveling alone for 2 years in his 23 foot sailboat...and he started in France. An interesting person for sure.
While I slept a inter island supply ship went between Steadfast and the shore and was unloading cargo onto the dock.

All the supplies 

I woke for my regular topside inspection at 1230 and upon removing my earplugs was surprised by the noise of their lifting crane and barking onboard dogs coupled with their bright lights meant that I was up till 2 when they finished, squeezed back out and things settled down. I still don’t know how Sheri slept through this... clean living perhaps.
Up on the 26th our goal was to dinghy to Shroud Cay 3 miles away and while entering it’s Land and Sea Park waterway, as my rumbled intestines were returning to their spot, I could see the attraction.

 

This lazy river wound through the mangroves as heron, turtles in clear water, and White Tailed Tropic Birds reflecting the turquoise sea ushered us to the ocean side.

 

There we climbed the hill to Camp Driftwood. One story was that this was a hermit shelter but I prefer the one that a US surveillance post was here to track the plane movements of Medellin Cartel kingpin Carlos Lehder. There is a good distant view of the airstrip at the end of Norman. A nice outing and a return on the calmer ocean side was much nicer.

We then moved Steadfast to the West side of the island to be out of the now NE wind and as we were pulling up the anchor Sheri pointed at the fuel ship a mile away. He pulled into the spot we occupied dropped anchor and backed into shore to offload. It was good we left and it made us look so wicked smaaat.

He moved right in our spot

Late that afternoon we took our last swim from the boat in this beautiful clear water and enjoyed the early evening drying in the sun.



Tomorrow we begin our 4 day marathon back to virus riddled Florida and we have truly enjoyed our visit... Thanks to all who contributed to getting us here, who traveled with us and the amazing welcoming Bahamian people that made it all so special.